Magic Windows, Marrakesh and Elsewhere

All photos taken Feb and March 2013

Windows, like doors, always hold a hint of mystery...

a moment of transition between inner and outer.

This window is in the Artisans' Ensemble in Marrakesh

as is this one. How Moroccans love colored glass as I did when we lived there.

Decorated window and door frames abound.

Here at Sherazade, the little old hotel we love in the medina right near Djemma ElFna, the windows have safety grilles. How many patterns can you see?

More windows at Sherazade --here facing the courtyard.

As above.

A nice austere window at the Bahia Palace.

Last two windows in hotels in Tiznet

and Essouira.

Sidi Ifni part 1 0f 3

The history of  the Moroccan seacoast is complicated --variously French, Spanish, Portuguese. You can read about it here.

Anyway, in late February we drove south to Sidi Ifni, where the Spanish were in charge until 1969. It has something of the air of a town-time-forgot --but the town hall is freshly painted.

This looks a little like a fort in the Spanish Sahara.

The cinema is being renovated --albeit astoundingly slowly.

The town square, high above the Atlantic, has charming plantings and a small encampments of protesters. We make a point of not getting involved in politics when abroad.

February flowers!

The Spanish consulate. A splendid building which could/should/maybe never will be restored!

A wall with shadows.

A mosque.

Looking down at the sea from the Belle Vue Hotel --a super precipitous view -- a rather tatty hotel

Exterior of the Belle Vue.

Robert outside the long defunct Twist Club

View over the rooftops from Xanadu where we stayed. A most wonderful, beautifully decorated French run riad.

Blue in Essouira/Feb

Unlike Marrakesh the pink city, Essouira is mostly blue and white.

Here an old house awaiting renovation

and an internal door at the hotel  Riad al Madina.

Doors and shutters heading to new homes.

Stairs to somewhere.....

Even blue phone booths....

but the door to the mosque is brown.

Currently I'm posting more Morocco photos here

Cats/ Morocco Edition Part I

Sindibad, the monarch of all he surveys, now lives a very pampered life

 but was born in the vegetable market in Djemma El Fna.

This elegant young lady is our Mimi reincarnated -- the same multicolored fur and up-slanted eyes.

Taking a nap in Gueliz in a planter with bamboo.

Taking a nap in the old part of town in a nice cardboard box.

Waiting for her babies to arrive in a nice sunny spot in Essouira.....

This mother-to-be was photographed in exactly the same meat market where Sindibad

 (in the top picure) was born. May her kittens be just as handsome.

The Beach at Essouira

Late afternoon light.

Looking back towards town

The remains of a strange fish.

On the sands

 Reflections.

The water was surprisingly warm.....

Jamie Oliver and the Famous Butcher

I was recently staying with my daughter who often visited us in Marrakesh.
She said I must watch the English chef  Jamie Oliver's programme on Channel 4
"Jamie Oliver does Marrakesh"  (April 10th 2010)
There, lo and behold, was our friendly butcher from the Mellah market.
It was such fun seeing such a cheery and upbeat program celebrating Moroccan food.
Do watch it if you can and if you enjoy eating...........

Just outside our Door

Musicians often wander playing music in the derb.  Here is one right outside our house.

His music is haunting and lovely.

This shot was taken very early in the morning when few people are about. 

I think this man is on his way to the mosque.

Laundry

Laundry in Morocco may be picturesque --see the photos by our daughter Claudia Schmid -- but it is also boring and time consuming.

Since we don't have a washing machine I have a trusty blue bucket instead, and a wooden paddle to stir things with. I soak things in the bucket, scrub the grubby bits, rinse things a lot – since the water is so full of minerals it’s hard to get the scum out, then wring the wretched things by hand and carry them up two long flights of stairs. Dryers exist here, but most people, like us, merely haul everything up to the roof. To be honest, I don’t attempt loads of sheets – we take them to the laundry proper.

Pegs seem to be considered rather a frill -- how much easier it is to just throw things on the wall, where everything, including blue jeans, dries almost at once.

Of course, sometimes things float off into one's neighbor's courtyard and they may or may not reappear.

All in all, washing machines are very good inventions.

Three Generations

Three Generations, originally uploaded by schmidwix2.

Taken on rue riad zitoune
djedid. One of the more charming back streets where I walked almost every day on my way to the fruit market. 

The old men are watching the world go by.

The young man is working, and the little boy is in a great hurry.

Anyone interested in everyday life in Marrakesh should scroll around on the blog and even go back in time.

My friend Maryam has a much more wonderful, glamorous and exciting Marrakech blog here