Years ago, before the Place Djemma elfna was paved, it used to be where all the buses coming from the country stopped.
The snack stalls and the juice stalls were for the weary travellers.
Now they cater to everyone - Moroccans and tourists alike.
Mustapha selling snails at night in the square. His is one of more than a hundred stalls selling all kinds of food - brochettes and eggs and salads and soup - fish and lamb and beef.
Everything you can think of.
During the day the square is full of snake charmers, fortune tellers, henna design ladies, musicians and orange juice sellers.
The central part of the square where the food stalls are at night is washed and scrubbed.
Very late in the afternoon, the carts are dragged into the square and set up - lights and all. Young men encourage you to visit their stalls. They look at you and try to work out what country you come from.
"Fish and chips! Fanny Craddock! Johnny Craddock! Jamie Oliver!"
I'm not quite sure what they say if they think you are German or French..........
Night falls over the square.
The party begins............